Moment in Peking, by Lin Yutang

Before they left the temple to wander among the various yards and buildings in the park, the monks had asked whether they should serve a vegetable or meat dinner. Mulan’s mother said that she and Mannia would have a vegetarian dinner, though the men would not be satisfied except with meat courses; but Mr. Fu said that of course they should all have a vegetarian dinner at this place, for not until one had tasted a vegetarian dinner prepared by the monks could one talk of vegetarian food at all. The monks of the Western Hills served such vegetarian dinners as might satisfy a prince. They had dishes called “ham,” “chicken,” and “fish rolls,” all made of bean curd to resemble the meat dishes in appearance and taste, and green vegetables cooked with liberal use of oil, and a great variety of the most dainty rolls and pastries.